Designers show their carefree side throughout their fall collections.
So many designers caught fashion critics off guard this fall season with their collections, which earned the week’s unofficial theme name as “expect the unexpected.” With nine days of nonstop events, from runway extravaganzas to never-ending socialite parties and all the street fashion statements in-between, NYFW seemed to be in a bit of utter frustration. It was only appropriate to cover the week’s most influential personalities who let their egos dominate the catwalk left and right.
Starting with Mrs. Lady Gaga herself, who has never been a stranger to the fashion critics. From her past questionable egg-incubated entrance to her recently refined glamour red carpet moments, one thing is for certain, people are going completely gaga over Gaga (yet again.) Not only is she currently the campaign face for Tom Ford’s Spring 2016 collection, but during this NYFW Gaga complimented her Countess dark ego from American Horror Story when she strut the Marc Jacobs runway in those unforgettably high platform boots and large shadowy overcoat.
Those over the top round shoulders Jacob’s offers on dresses and jackets this fall put the 1980’s to shame. The look also complimented other designers like Dion Lee and Narciso Rodriguez who paired their gigantic outlines with shorter skirts on models to offset the undone look. Designers should have made their runways wider to make room for the redundancy of long-line hoodies, king-size overcoats, baggy denim, sweatpants and large egos. This took athleisure to a whole different level, where fashion has officially turned into fashionably lazy.
But Jacobs wasn’t the only designer to incorporate the oversized look through his entire collection. Mrs. Rihanna Fenty, fashion’s edgy icon of the moment, also made a debut with an extreme baggy look with the “Fenty X Puma” collaboration. She turned traditional Puma into a grungy athleisure wear with an anticipated twist of rebellion. Seriously, just check out those number 13– seriously too-high– stiletto boots, which compliments her new ANTI album quite splendidly. At this point, she might have put a hex on fashion with her badass infliction emphasized throughout all of the Puma designs.
Speaking of unexpected collaborations, Rihanna and Kanye West’s track “Famous” (a.k.a. the Taylor Swift dis-track) premiered with West’s album “Life of Pablo” while overlapping with his “Yeezy Season Three” fashion show. The show had people out of their seats, literally. Especially once that track came on, Swift admirers left the building and took to twitter in her defense.
had a clear cohesion between the garments, the show itself lacked structure through its presentation. The fidgeting models who attempted to stand in place for two plus hours couldn’t make it through the show and collapsed for a break. No wonder people couldn’t be still.
Particularly with fashion shows, it’s been a longstanding expectation to remain seated through the entire event. In a very general sense, these shows have always followed a predictable uniformed procedure—models come down the runway, models go back up the runway, people watch and then people leave.
However, Hood by Air knew exactly how to get the audience up from their seats (in a much different way than West I should add.) Musician turned model Hirakish stepped out of the traditional model formation and weaved in and out of other models walking down the runway. He definitely stroked his ego a bit, all doing so in stiletto heels. Maybe he was just trying to out-stage Rihanna, knows one knows for sure.
This was an opposing act, a statement of sorts aim directly towards the fashion community which really felt like a giant middle finger to say the least. With the industry’s overwhelming amount of stress season after season, Hood by Air production had one message for everyone: Break the outdated runway expectations and have a little fun.
It no secret that designers like Jeremy Scott have been breaking the runway mold for quite some time now. Whether you love that modern age mod turn pop esthetic, or not, Scott manages to shock people all back to life at some point or another. No matter if he’s designing cloths that incorporate the Powerpuff Girls for one collection or the Looney Tones for the next, it seemed it was only a matter of time until he turned to Nickelodeon’s ultra-chaotic 90’s T.V. series “Ren and Stimpy.”
That’s one way to think outside of the box and Alexander Wang offered another. He created deconstructed boxy logoed garments on micro-fishnet tops and stockings paired with Marijuana leaf patterned skirts. An interesting pairing that sent everyone on a psychedelic trip down memory lane. With embossed words like “Girls” “Tender” and “Strict” that resembled competitor DKNY’s printed oxford shirt “Insert Logo Here” and Puma’s foreign language printed tights that resembled the Matrix code found in the film.
Could designers be losing their cool or are they just keeping it chill? It seems like the majority of the NYFW fashion designs are responding to all the negativity the industry has endured over the last year. It seems to be a time that designers are on the same page about one thing— offsetting the fashion matrix. Artists who have dealt with high stress year-round, constant changing industry standards and operating on a never-ending monetarily driven production wheel, who could blame them for all non-subtle rebellion?
A system lost in transition may have the designers in a negative rut, using their designs to revolt against longstanding industry traditions. With all this deconstructionism, baggy sweatpant silhouettes, ego and bad attitude, the industry is crying for some well needed tender love and care. Could it be a plea for change or simply a creative message, or both? Or maybe being bad is the new good, just like being loud is the new quiet and “Orange is the New Black.” In whatever case, NYFW was more like an “in your face” reminder that designers have their egos, too.
Photos Courtesy of WWD
Tyler J. Drinnen, is the Founder and Editor in Chief of iTEM MAGAZINE. His primary goal as a Fashion Creative, is to document fashion history in the streetwear and art sector.
From the lens of an abstract visual content producer, he holds a Bachelor of Arts in Communication and Media Studies from Sonoma State University; where he wrote a weekly Opinion Column for The Star, dabbled with his own radio podcast format, titled Saturday Nite Scandal, and helped to create one of the first Professional Student Lead PR Firms in the USA.
From there on, he continued his work by interning with Sonoma Discoveries Magazine and then shortly after wrote and interned for Fashion School Daily, where he solidified his love for feature writing and working with emerging talents from around the world.
In December of 2016, he received an Honorary Master of Arts in Fashion Journalism from the Academy of Art University – And what an achievement that was, to be the first in his program to have graduated a full semester early – Bringing him to four design oriented degrees in a short five and a half years, nothing will stop him from bringing art of the few, to the eyes of many.
He has worked in the fashion industry for just over a decade, from commercial retail visual management to corporate level ghost writing and consulting. Now, in this exact moment, T.J.D. takes his life public with the independent urban California lifestyle based fashion movement, iTEM MAGAZINE: A Platform For Rising Artists.