TO MADEMOISELLE YULIA, THE DARK MATTERS.
The Tokyo based Mademoiselle Yulia - a club DJ turned fashion designer - has become one of the emerging voices in where fashion and music meet. She adds perspective to a rising street esthetic; a house with a direction set upon blending the social constructs of gender identities – all together into one – in order to sell to a whole new market of clothing consumers.
Despite being a brand which gained mixed reviews as “borderlining costume”, among a term of other criticisms, Yulia made her first runway debut for Growing Pains during Amazon Tokyo Fashion Week Fall 2017. She created a genderless take on a military regime collection, that consisted of cargo pocked vests, holster styled accessories, combat boots, bomber jackets and of course, what would it have been without the camo prints.
But for this Fall 2018, while staying true to that somewhat playful take on militia oriented and rebellious nature, she hits at the root of her club scene days, with matrix styled sunglasses, latex looking thigh-highs, puffer vests and mid-calf platform boots. The shoe silhouette selections took the whole dad-shoe trend, sock-shoe trend and stocking-in-heel trend to a new phase. How did she do it here? Well, Yulia mainly used silicone based textiles instead of traditional spandex and scuba stretch material, that are often seen within other brands like Vetements and Gucci.
The oversized hoodie, a solid black pencil skirt, and long sleeved tee with a screen-printed artwork of an eye being worshiped in the sky, all have the words “Dark Matter” inscribed into them. Indeed, there was something emerging from the shadows here. Yet, I couldn’t decide if it came from deep down below us in the pits of hell or from the glimmering night skies in the abundance above us. Maybe, it originated from both.
One of the coats in army green, looks to be a galaxy of stars printed on the upper half of the body. While on the other hand, a yellow long sleeved shirt had a 2D diagram of a cubed universal space rendering, folding in on itself, screaming, “As Above, So Below." So then in the physics of it all, maybe Yulia did look to the beyond for the science of her work. Something of that philosophy rang through the entire physicality of the collection.
ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF JAPAN FASHION WEEK ORGANIZATION AND INDIGITAL.TV
I’m not completely sure that it matters to you – as much as it did to me – but Growing Pains’ influences may also just have came from some of the whispers happening behind closed doors. I’m referring to the deep conversations you have with the ones you trust, about the dark parts of the free internet. Within that, there moves an increasingly evolving sector of conspiracy theorists and websites that attempt to connect the synchronicity and happenings of our lives, to alternative realities and dimensions. I mean, not that you’d really have to go online to see some of the theories playing out; just open your eyes and look around fam. Seems like our universe is starting to fold in on itself, just like that yellow shirt.
Times are getting dark, but at least Yulia is channeling something beautiful out of it.
Tyler J. Drinnen, is the Founder and Editor in Chief of iTEM MAGAZINE. His primary goal as a Fashion Creative, is to document fashion history in the streetwear and art sector.
From the lens of an abstract visual content producer, he holds a Bachelor of Arts in Communication and Media Studies from Sonoma State University; where he wrote a weekly Opinion Column for The Star, dabbled with his own radio podcast format, titled Saturday Nite Scandal, and helped to create one of the first Professional Student Lead PR Firms in the USA.
From there on, he continued his work by interning with Sonoma Discoveries Magazine and then shortly after wrote and interned for Fashion School Daily, where he solidified his love for feature writing and working with emerging talents from around the world.
In December of 2016, he received an Honorary Master of Arts in Fashion Journalism from the Academy of Art University – And what an achievement that was, to be the first in his program to have graduated a full semester early – Bringing him to four design oriented degrees in a short five and a half years, nothing will stop him from bringing art of the few, to the eyes of many.
He has worked in the fashion industry for just over a decade, from commercial retail visual management to corporate level ghost writing and consulting. Now, in this exact moment, T.J.D. takes his life public with the independent urban California lifestyle based fashion movement, iTEM MAGAZINE: A Platform For Rising Artists.