THE RE\VIEW: AN ITEM CATALOG OF EXCLUSIVE RUNWAY REVIEWS, CRITIQUES & CULTURAL EVENTS, PAYING RESPECT TO THE WORLDS OF FASHION, ENTERTAINMENT & ART.
A Fantasy Built Upon A Nightmare.
The most spectacle of a street show happening during the SS18 season of NYFW, undoubtedly goes to Philipp Plein. Among his entourage, was big names like Nicki Minaj, who sat front row glaming for the gram, right before widely known burlesque performer Dita Von Teese, made the stage her bitch. Both stars in attendance seemed to be fittingly perfect for a night focused on an unambiguous theme: the good side of a bad fantasy.
Plein showed his men’s and women’s selections within one show this season, with a blatantly loud direction placed upon his explicit design characteristics. Besides carrying the bad-girl vibe throughout the thirty-something looks, the cagey glamor of the billowy undergarments worn on the reverse, became the dominating theme. This, being alongside a fairy tale character, which resembled Cinderella and Snow White, depicted as gagged and bound. Clearly there was an emphasis on dominating something!
Here, it was actually the complete opposite of your traditionally childhood fantasy. It was one that could probably make you, too, want to gag, if you didn’t completely understand the Plein message: “I’m not here to be a role model or to educate the youth or teenagers.”
Images Courtesy of DigitialTV
It wasn’t the characteristics of the show that fell short for me, as much as it was in the details of it: slapping on the graphics of the princess logo somewhat cheapened the value of the brand. Yet, maybe it also helped translate it fully, as he has been comfortable creating those jewel t-shirts in the past. But the embroidered shine of the forest characters on the denim, now that, that stood out to be the most wearable, by far.
Plein surely knows his clientele and as inclusive as a brand it may seem to be, people without any money at all could probably achieve a similar esthetic at home with a little time; open up Photoshop, a printer, iron on transfer, white t-shirts and scissors. Knock-offs – after all – are one of the strongest forms of flattery in the industry, aren't they? Because I'm willing to bet, Plein would have got slapped with a heavy lawsuit from Disney, had the label not gone down the excessive parody route. Had the cartoons been any closer to the real story book characters, Disney may have been entitled to some licensing fees. Wouldn't want to end up in another court battle, like the Plein's namesake has gone into with Puma recently; in which the plaintiff claims the brand used an emblem that was awfully close to Puma's trademark.
But it’s important to note, that the collection here, wasn’t all bad. There was still enough to fall in love with, had we all been living in his idea of a tall tale. The booty-shorts with big sunflower beading set under the black dominatrix cage, was another eye catching piece, one that could be worn by both you and Beyoncé. And the silver pointed shoes, don’t even get me started; definitely, better than your average glass slipper.
Images Courtesy of DigitialTV
Plein sure knows how to get under your skin, even if it is by creating your perfect fantasy nightmare. But you got to give the man some props for using his voice of rebellion in a time of such political crisis. We need badass females wearing this out in the open. We need that badass clothing designer of your nightmares! It all screams, fittingly: DOWN WITH THE MONARCHY. And If you think he’s trying to sell you on it, imagine what that princess must feel like, all tied up. Because where life imitates art, Plein smirks at your idea of a basic-ass fairytale.
Tyler J. Drinnen, is the Founder and Editor in Chief of iTEM MAGAZINE. His primary goal as a Fashion Creative, is to document fashion history in the streetwear and art sector.
From the lens of an abstract visual content producer, he holds a Bachelor of Arts in Communication and Media Studies from Sonoma State University; where he wrote a weekly Opinion Column for The Star, dabbled with his own radio podcast format, titled Saturday Nite Scandal, and helped to create one of the first Professional Student Lead PR Firms in the USA.
From there on, he continued his work by interning with Sonoma Discoveries Magazine and then shortly after wrote and interned for Fashion School Daily, where he solidified his love for feature writing and working with emerging talents from around the world.
In December of 2016, he received an Honorary Master of Arts in Fashion Journalism from the Academy of Art University – And what an achievement that was, to be the first in his program to have graduated a full semester early – Bringing him to four design oriented degrees in a short five and a half years, nothing will stop him from bringing art of the few, to the eyes of many.
He has worked in the fashion industry for just over a decade, from commercial retail visual management to corporate level ghost writing and consulting. Now, in this exact moment, T.J.D. takes his life public with the independent urban California lifestyle based fashion movement, iTEM MAGAZINE: A Platform For Rising Artists.